August 18, 2005 Section: Take Five Page: Italy comes to Blaine.
Tanya Perkins Staff. Bella Marina mixes classic with contemporary
TANYA PERKINS TAKE FIVE The big red, green and white flag draped on the wall, right beside a map of Sicily, lets you know up front that Italian cuisine is what Bella Marina is all about. Owner Nick Scianna's Sicilian heritage is the force shaping the menu which spotlights pasta, though there's enough steak and halibut dishes to keep any low-carb devotee happy. Prices: Appetizers $4.99-$9.99, lunch entrees $5.99-$15.99, dinner entrees $7.99-$24.99, desserts $4.95-$6.50. Parking: Lot and street. Ambience: The small, open dining room is flooded with natural light from big windows that wrap around three sides, boasting a knockout view of Blaine Harbor. Gray-black carpet, black tables and chairs and red cloth napkins add a jot of formality, but it's not buttoned-down at all - wear your jeans (the good ones) and bring the kids without a second thought. Best seat in the house: Ask for a booth along the back wall and, if you're a birdwatcher, bring binoculars; the harborside view takes in gull and cormorant nesting areas on the farthest breakwater. Service: A little too rushed. Our appetizer was brought out at the same time as the salad course and our entrees arrived while we were barely halfway though our salad. Chef's choice: Lasagna al forno ($13.99) "It's a comfort food," says manager Heidi Meagher. "It's a sweeter sauce and we bake it in a 500-degree oven so everything gets melted together. It's really popular." The generously-sized portion comes with choice of soup or salad. You also might try: · Sicilian meatballs ($6.99): This appetizer consists of two almost-baseball size, all-beef meatballs resting gently in a thick, robust, slightly sweet, beef-based marinara sauce. The menu dubs them "Italian Stallions" but don't let that put you off; these boys were moist and toothsome right to the center, made from the owner's family recipe that spans generations. · Eggplant Parmesan ($12.99): In this savory version, eggplant is given relief from the usual breading and frying. Instead, thin slices are layered between a mix of parmesan, mozzarella, provolone, cheddar and Monterey Jack, then baked in a rich basil-toned, vegetarian marinara sauce, resulting in a melange of earthy, seemingly caramelized flavors. We loved it. It comes with spaghetti or rice and the daily vegetable. · Roasted garlic chicken linguini ($13.99): Italian goes a lighter shade of pale. Garlic takes on mild, sweet and approachable tones when roasted, giving this sauce its primary flavor; basil and parmesan add secondary notes. The rich, creamy sauce is tossed with linguini and slices of chicken breast for a delish dish dressed all in white. Add a sprinkle of black pepper for contrast and a chilled Chardonnay for bliss. Vegetarian options: Eggplant Parmesan ($12.99) is meat-free along with a few pasta dishes, like the simple classic, pasta algio e'olio ($9.99), which is spaghetti tossed with olive oil, garlic and fresh parsley. Wine and beverages: Seventeen red and nine white wines ($15.95-$21.95/bottle), three reds and two whites by the glass ($4.50), 10 beers ($3.50-$4.25/bottle) are available, as well as Italian soda, soft drinks, coffee and tea ($1.79-$2.49). If you bring your own bottle, the corkage fee is a very reasonable $5. Smoking area: None. Kids menu? Yes, choices include some simple pastas, cheese bread and pizza bread ($2.99-$3.99). Reservations? Good idea on the weekends. The tab and opinion expressed herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. E-mail questions and suggestions to dining@bellinghamherald.com. RACHEL E. BAYNE THE BELLINGHAM HERALD
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